Don’t do this if your gun has been rained on

The trapped moisture threat (the science)

The science of trapped moisture

Storing a wet gun is the fastest way to ruin a good day’s work. When you put your gear away damp, you’re starting an electrochemical reaction that turns your steel into iron oxide. It’s a simple process where water acts as the catalyst for rust, and it happens much faster than you think.

If you’re using a foam-lined case or a gun sock for storage, you’re essentially building a trap. These materials soak up the moisture and create a microclimate that prevents air circulation. Instead of evaporating, the water stays locked against the metal. This moisture creeps into the engineered crevices and hard-to-reach parts of your action where it’s impossible to dry without taking the whole thing apart.

Leaving your gun wet leads to hidden corrosion that will seize up your moving parts. Don’t let a bit of rain wreck your kit; make sure our gear is dry before it goes in the cabinet.

<h2Surface wiping isn't enough

To truly mitigate the risk of corrosion, a quick exterior wipe is insufficient, as the most significant threats are hidden and internal . The barrel bore easily traps moisture when mixed with corrosive salts and carbon residue, leading to pitting that will permanently ruin your accuracy . Because of the tight tolerances we’ve engineered into the action (receiver, slide rails, and bolt carrier group), water gets stuck in the gaps and guarantees functional damage unless you’re willing to strip it down and dry it properly.
Wiping the outside of your gun and calling it a day is a bold strategy; let us know how that works out for your average . Moisture settles in recess points, such as under grips or around screws, creating a stagnant microclimate where corrosion is impossible to eliminate without deliberate intervention . If you’re missing targets because your gear is seizing up, a shiny finish won’t save your scorecard . We need to be direct and dry every internal crevice before applying oil, or we’re just waiting for a loud ‘Loss’ from the scorer.

The responsible owner’s mandate

A responsible firearm owner must adhere to this process:
Disassemble the action thoroughly.
Inspect the barrel with a light.
Actively dry all internal surfaces, small parts, and crevice points.

1. 1. Apply a protective layer of oil before storage.

Do not fire or cycle the action until inspected (for serious drenching)

If you have been out in a serious drenching, don’t even think about cycling the action until you have checked your kit. Ammunition integrity is vital because moisture can wick into the case and contaminate the powder or primers. Wet powder leads to catastrophic failures like ‘no-birds’ or dangerous squibs where the shot gets stuck in the barrel. A damp primer is just as bad, making the shell useless and leaving you with an empty scorecard
After a wet session, you must do more than just a quick wipe; you must prioritise the immediate removal of all internal debris. Leaving grit, carbon, or dust inside the action allows these abrasive particles to act like sandpaper between moving parts. This friction scores the finish and ensures functional failures. Our shooters know that a complete routine means cleaning out all abrasive grit before we store our guns

Don’t get fired up: skip the heat when drying your gear

Reaching for a hair dryer or oven to dry your gun is a dangerous shortcut that ruins kit in two ways: direct material damage and a hidden condensation problem. Extreme heat compromises components beyond the steel, causing modern polymer finishes to melt, while classic wooden stocks crack or warp as moisture is aggressively extracted. It can even alter the protective qualities of engineered coatings.

The second threat is the condensation risk once the metal cools. Rapid heating gives the illusion of surface dryness, yet the retained heat in the steel’s mass causes the gun to ‘sweat’ internally. When the hot metal is introduced back into a cooler environment, ambient water vapour condenses back onto the surface. This traps a fine, invisible film of water the primary catalyst for rust, deep inside the crevices. Ultimately, you’re just accelerating corrosion where you least expect it.

Dry first, then lubricate

A critical step many shooters get wrong is applying lubricant before their gear is completely dry, a mistake that actively hinders protection. The primary issue is dilution and defeat. Oil and water do not mix, meaning any lubricant applied to a wet surface will simply float on top. This prevents the oil’s protective agents from directly bonding with the metal

Attempting to oil a damp, unclean gun leads to the creation of a grime paste. The oil traps the water, corrosive salts, and leftover grit beneath its layer, effectively sealing these contaminants against the steel. This mix turns into an abrasive, corrosive sludge, ensuring that the water remains in direct contact with the metal for an extended period. This dramatically accelerates the rusting and pitting process you were trying to prevent. The rule is absolute: dry first, then lubricate

Let’s sum it up for you

Preserving your gear requires understanding that water is the primary catalyst for corrosion, actively initiating the formation of rust, especially when trapped in a storage microclimate. You cannot rely on a quick surface wipe, as moisture hides in the barrel bore, tight engineered action tolerances, and recess points, leading to hidden pitting and functional failure
Always avoid shortcuts: never use heat sources, which risk damaging materials and creating internal condensation, and never apply lubricant before the gun is completely dry. Oil will simply float and seal in corrosive water and debris, turning into a sludge that wrecks your kit. Our mandate is clear: full disassembly, active drying, and debris removal must happen before lubrication to guarantee your longevity, reliability, and accuracy.